Kerr Lighting -{14 pk KIT} Residential 4" x 8" Paver Lights (3.75" W x 7.75" L)

Description: (14 Pack Kit) Kerr Lighting RESIDENTIAL PAVER LIGHTS (7.75"L x 3.75"W) Product #: KPAV04-K14 We Ship Daily Monday - Friday Product is in New Condition with a 2 Year Manufacturer Warranty TJB-INC is the oldest Kerr Lighting Dealer/Installer in the USA (Since 1995). Includes (14 pack Kit) Kerr Lighting RESIDENTIAL 4" x 8" PAVER LIGHTS Weather Resistant and Durable Shatterproof Plastic Kerr Lighting's original brick paver lights with incandescent bulbs can be used with all 2 3/8” (60 mil) high concrete or clay pavers. Each 4x8 light is made of strong resin material, and includes frosted white lens, lamp socket(s), bulb(s) and 2 solder-less connectors per light. Actual Production Dimensions: ‎ 3.75 "W x 7.75 "L x 2.37"H Weight: 18 LB Shape: Rectangular Color: Frosted White/Clear Finish Type: Brushed Included Components: 14 Residential Lighting Fixtures & 14 Residential Lens Covers 14 Bulbs & 8 Lamp Sockets 28 Solderless Connectors & Clips100 feet of 16/2 low voltage cable(1) 100 Watt Low Voltage Transformer (Includes an integrated timer and photocell.) Special Features: Water, Snow, and Ice ResistantFree draining base Energy Efficient Style: Traditional; Modern *** TJB-INC Kerr Lighting Installation Tips *** Thank you for purchasing Kerr Lights . We would like to share some installation tips to help make your installation worry free. · Each light comes with: Base, Lens, Socket(s), Bulb(s) & (2) Connectors (these will be either Brown Saddle Connectors, or Silicone Connectors). We recommend when using the brown saddle connectors, applying a dab of Di-Electric Grease on the connection points before crimping the connection closed. This will help seal out air and water from the connection points and prevent/slow corrosion of the connections over time. · Add up the output wattage of all of the bulbs (incandescent and/or LED) in your system. a. 6” x 9” lights come with (2) 7-watt bulbs, so each light has a 14-watt draw. 10 of these lights will draw 140-watts of power. Always add an additional 10% to your total. (140 + 14 = 154). b. Now look at the output of your transformer. Take 10% off the rated output. IE: 200-watt rated output would be actually 180-watts. c. Using this formula, as long as the adjusted total of wattage draw does not exceed the adjusted output wattage of the transformer, your system will last a long time. · There are several different ways to connect the lights to the power feed cable from the transformer. Choose the method that best suits your site. · The first is called “Daisy Chain”. This is where the power feed cable goes down along the edge of the installation and each light attaches on to this cable in succession. If using this connection method, be sure that there is less than 100 watts of total draw from the lights and less than 100’ of 16/2 cable from the transformer to the end of the run. If the run is longer than 100‘on your run, or greater than 100 watts of draw, then switch to larger 12/2 low voltage cable. If lining both sides of a walkway or driveway with lights, it would be better off running a power feed cable down along both sides of the installation area. This will help balance out the power draw. If not balanced, the lights closest to the transformer will be brighter and more yellow/white in color. The lights farthest away will be less bright and more of an orange/yellow in color. · The second is a “Loop Installation”. If the lights are going around a patio/pool deck or similar application, install the power feed cable from the transformer all the way around the installation area and then connect the end of the power feed cable back into the beginning of the power feed cable. The power supply is AC (Alternating Current) not DC (Direct Current with a + & - side), take care on tapping the end of the cable back into the top. Low voltage cable has both a smooth finish on one side of the outside insulation and a raised rib on the other. When doing a Loop Installation, you must connect the smooth to smooth and the ribbed to the ribbed. Otherwise, the circuit breaker in the transformer will continually trip and the system will not work. The advantage to the loop installation is that the available power to the lights is spread more evenly distributed and balanced throughout the system meaning, the lights will all be close to the same brightness and color. · The Third is a “Hub Installation”. For long cable runs with lots of lights to install, run multiple power feed cables to groups of fixtures that are all connected together. This Hub feature supplies power to smaller groups of lights balancing out the distribution, so the lights have the same brightness and color. · We recommend you install your wires from the transformer to each light connection, but do not install the light fixture yet. When the paver installation is brand new, a “dummy” paver is put in place of the light fixture when the polymeric sand is swept into the joints and then compacted. If the light fixtures are installed before the compaction step, the vibration from the compactor can break the filament of the light bulbs and they will not light up. If this happens, replacement T5 Wedge style bulbs will be needed to be purchased. NOTE: This is not covered under warranty. · When installing light bulbs into the Kerr fixtures, make sure to add a dab of Di-Electric Grease to the top of the socket before inserting the light bulb. This grease will help coat the electrical connection between the socket and the light bulb which prevents air and water from reaching the connections. This will help prevent corrosion and failure of the connections over time. · After installing the bulbs, use a gauze pad with rubbing alcohol to remove any di-electric grease or oils from your fingers from the surface of the bulb. Grease and oil left on the glass bulb can cause weak spots and pre-mature failure of the bulb (Incandescent or LED). · If installing the 6” x 9” Millennium, California, Camelot, or New Age light fixtures, the base plate will be larger than the 5-sided lens. This is so the flanges can tuck under surrounding pavers and keep the base section in place. When installing along the outside border, the flange towards the edge restraint will need to be trimmed with scissors or knife in order to properly fit. · Always check the connections and the transformer, making sure that all lights are connected and are working correctly before re-installing the top lens. · Once the system operation has been confirmed, then the lens cover can be installed. If installing the Millennium, California, Camelot, or New Age light fixtures, then care must be taken when placing the polymeric sand around the lenses. TJB-INC has found a pastry funnel works the best. It puts the sand exactly where it needs to be in just the right amount. While applying pressure to the top of the lens so it does not rise up, tap the adjoining pavers with a rubber mallet to help settle the sand correctly. Please read and follow the sand manufacturer’s instructions on the proper water activation of the product used. NOTE: Some require multiple light soakings while others require a single deep soaking. Make sure to save a few extra bags of this sand to have on hand if any repairs/maintenance is needed in the future. · As time goes by, dirt and unwanted vegetation can get inside of the light fixtures. TJB-INC recommends every year or two, opening the fixture and clearing any unwanted debris that might have accumulated inside. · A tip on removing an installed lens with hardened polymeric sand around the lens on the Millennium, California, Camelot, or New Age light fixtures: Polymeric sand can be softened by pouring hot water around the lens which makes the lifting up of the lens much easier. After the lens is removed, use a shop vacuum to remove the old polymeric sand. It cannot be reused! After completing the maintenance, re-install the lens and follow the directions in the preceding section.

Price: 362.99 USD

Location: Hamden, Connecticut

End Time: 2024-10-20T16:52:57.000Z

Shipping Cost: 29 USD