Description: Product DescriptionEPOXY RESIN SUPER CLEAR Casting kit UV Art, JewelleryALL the Picture showed the effection. Maybe you can do that.Features*Safty-These products have been registered at Australia Department of Health under section 80B of the Industrial Chemicals (Notification and Assessment) Act 1989 on the Register of Industrial Chemical, that meet exceed Australian Industrial Chemicals Standard.*Crystal Clear Finish-Cures Crystal Clear. One of the clearest epoxies you can find. Suitable for wooden bar tops, embedding pictures, bottle cap table projects & more*UV Resistant Formula-Added UV Inhibitors resist yellowing when exposed to the sun and Ultra Violet light*Self Level Mixture- Will self level over surfaces including corners, bar rails and edges leaving consistent thickness*Superior Air Release- Some epoxies may bubble, fish eye or crater. Our formula features superior air release, minimizing these concernsEPOXY RESIN WITH A PAIR OF GLOVES AND MANUAL1:1 Ratio Epoxy Resin Mix by VolumeTroubleshooting TipsApplicationHow To Harden Sticky ResinHow to reduce the bubbles? What Are The 3 Most Frequent Mistakes Made By Resin Newbies? Youve watched our tutorials or heard from others say how easy it is to use epoxy resin. The truth is, it IS easy... but its not foolproof. Here are the top 3 things people do wrong when they first try using resin... follow along so you dont have to learn the hard way! You first need to know that epoxy resin comes in 2 parts: a resin and a hardener. When these two parts are mixed according to directions, a chemical reaction occurs which causes the liquid mixture to cure. When this chemical reaction is somehow prevented or disrupted, a perfect cure is no longer possible, and the result is a sticky mess! Below is what not to do! :) 1. Not Measuring Accurately Precisely Mixing the resin ratio by volume or weight according to the instruction on the bottles. Its important to be accurate when measuring both parts to ensure the ratio is indeed equal, because any material that cannot catalyze properly will remain uncured and sticky. 2. Not Mixing Thoroughly Once youve ensured your mixing ratio is accurate and equal, its important to mix both parts together thoroughly. Again, if any material cannot catalyze properly by any means, including not being blended well enough, it will not be able to cure fully. Mixing vigorously for three to four solid minutes, scraping the sides and bottom of the container, should ensure everything can thoroughly catalyze. 3. Trying to Cheat the Cure Time By Adding More Hardener All In Chemi Box cures mostly (to 95%) within 24 hours, with its fullest cure in 72 hrs. Sometimes people think they can speed up this cure time by adding more hardener to the mixture, however this only throws off the delicate 1:1/2:1/3:1/5:1 mixing ratio and causing curing issues. The best way to encourage curing is to increase the room temperature, since curing is accelerated by heat. If you follow our simple how-to instructions and simply measure and mix your All In Chemi Box properly, you will have no difficulty using and applying All In Chemi Box to your project! Usually, it is best to apply a very thin layer of epoxy as an initial seal. It is often referred to as flooding. If you apply a very thin layer of epoxy to the wood to seal it before moving on to a thicker coat, you will lessen the likelihood of bubbles forming in the epoxy. To apply this thin layer, you should use a foam brush instead of a paint brush. In small areas, it may work fine to pour a little epoxy onto the surface and allow it to self-level. The reason for this initial coating is to prevent air bubbles from appearing as the epoxy soaks into the wood or anything other surface that you may be applying epoxy. Bubbles will clutter your completed project will look. This could cause a project to appear to be cloudy and thrown together. You should wait on the flood coat to dry enough that it is not tacky to touch. Most resin and hardener mixtures are simply mixed and poured. In most cases, you should only mix it for long enough to stir it. This will give you the least amount of bubbles and the maximum amount of time to pour it on the surface area of your project. If you do end up with air bubbles inside the epoxy, you should use a torch or even a blow dryer. This will help the bubbles work their way up and out of the epoxy instead of hardening inside of it where you may never be able to get rid of them. Once poured, the mixture should self-level out slowly. If you have a large surface area, you may opt to speed it up by spreading it out with a trowel or a foam brush. Most epoxies will level out at 1/16” to 1/8”. You should not attempt to spread it thinner. Once it is spread out, leave it alone to dry. If you want a thicker coat, you will need to reapply another layer of it. This should be done after the first layer becomes hardened, but does not require you to wait until it is completely cured. When you look at different brands, you will find that most take only a few hours to become hard to the touch. This is when you will want to add other layers. There are some that may require you to sand or scuff the original layer before pouring future ones, but most all can be applied without scuffing. If you are finished with all layers, you should wait on it to cure for about 24 hours before putting it to use as a table or a bar top. This allows it to be fully cured and virtually impenetrable. How To Harden Sticky Resin If your resin hasnt cured properly, this means that the chemical reaction between the resin and hardener was not able to take place. Sticky resin is typically caused by inaccurate measuring or under mixing. The three most common sticky issues are: Liquid, runny resin: causes can include not following the correct ratio of resin and hardener(please see the instruction on the bottle), or by adding too much colorant. The liquid resin will need to be scraped off before you pour a fresh coat. Sticky, tacky resin: often caused by inaccurate measuring, not mixing thoroughly or by curing in cold temperatures. Try moving your piece to a warmer spot: if it doesnt dry, re-pour with a fresh coat of resin. Soft, sticky spots: if you have sticky spots on an otherwise perfectly cured surface, you may have scraped out unmixed resin or hardener from your mixing container when you poured. Scrape off liquid resin as best you can and pour a fresh coat. Resin that remains sticky days after being poured will stay sticky indefinitely until measures are taken to fix the situation. Be sure to measure and mix your resin properly, so this problem will not occur again: Measure All In Chemi Box in precisely equal amounts by volume or weight: Adding too much of either resin or hardener will alter the chemical reaction and the mixture will not cure properly. Mix All In Chemi Box thoroughly for at least 3 minutes: Scrape the sides and bottom of the container as you mix: improperly mixed resin stuck to the sides and bottom wont be able to catalyze and therefore wont be able to cure, leaving sticky spots in your resin that just won’t harden. Sticky Situation #1: Runny Resin What It Looks Like: Liquid, runny resin Resin that may have thickened somewhat but is wet and gooey Why It May Have Happened: You did not follow the 1:1 ratio between resin and hardener: All In Chemi Box requires equal parts of both resin and hardener in order to cure. Adding more hardener will not make the resin cure faster or harder. You may have measured in wrong way, make sure the mixing ratio by weight or volume: All In Chemi Box was formulated to be measured in equal amounts by volume or weight for different radio. You may have accidentally mixed two parts of resin or two parts of hardener: the chemical reaction requires equal parts of resin and hardener in order to harden. You may have added too much colorant: never add more than 6% of the total combined volume of resin and hardener ( eg. 50ml resin + 50 ml hardener = 100 ml total would require no more than 6 ml of colorant. ) How To Fix It: If you have areas with runny or gooey resin, youll have to scrape off as much wet material, as best you can. If you dont remove all the wet material, it could eventually leak out from under the new resin coat. Once youve scraped your piece down, then go ahead and pour a fresh coat of carefully measured and thoroughly mixed All In Chemi Box. Sticky Situation #2: Tacky Resin What It Looks Like: The resin has started to cure but the surface is still tacky, like the sticky side of tape Why It Happened: The temperature of your resin room may be too cold: the ideal temperature in which to cure resin is 75-85F or 24-30C for the first 24 hours. Inaccurate measuring: always measure All In Chemi Box in precisely equal amounts, by volume. Under mixing: mix thoroughly for at least 3 minutes, scraping the sides and bottom of the mixing container as your stir. How To Fix It: Try moving your piece to a warmer spot for 24 hours to see if it dries. If temperature was not an issue and your resin is simply tacky, count yourself lucky: this is the easiest fix of all 3 sticky situations. In fact, as long as you dont have any soft or wet areas ( if you do, that liquidy resin needs to be scraped ) you dont need to do a thing: go ahead and pour a fresh coat of carefully measured and thoroughly mixed All In Chemi Box directly over the entire tacky resin surface. When the fresh resin cures, youll never know you ever had a sticky resin issue. Sticky Situation #3: Soft Spots What It Looks Like: Random soft or wet spots on an otherwise perfectly cured resin surface. Why It May Have Happened: You may have scraped the sides of your mixing container after you poured: although we recommend scraping the sides and bottom of your container when youre mixing, we DONT recommend scraping when you pour your All In Chemi Box onto your artwork ( like you might if you were scraping cake batter out of a mixing bowl and into a cake pan. ) If any unmixed resin or hardener stuck to the sides gets scraped out onto your artwork, youll end up with soft wet spots in your cured resin. How To Fix It: Sand down any perfectly cured areas with coarse sandpaper, such as 80 grit. Wipe up any sanding residue with a damp paper towel. If you have areas with runny or gooey resin, youll have to scrape off as much wet material, as best you can. If you dont remove all the wet material, it could eventually leak out from under the new resin coat. Once youve scraped your piece down and your piece is clear of any sanding dust, then go ahead and pour a fresh coat of carefully measured and thoroughly mixed All In Chemi Box. Conclusion: If You Find Yourself With Sticky Resin: If its liquidy: scrape it off If its tacky: leave it If you have areas that have cured perfectly: sand those parts down, thoroughly wiping away the sanding residue Leave your fresh resin coat to cure for 24 hours: your piece will look good as new! To Avoid Sticky Resin In The First Place: Make sure you resin in a warm environment ( 75-85F or 24-30C is best ) Dont add more than 6% colorant to your resin Measure your resin and hardener in equal amounts by volume Mix your resin thoroughly for at least 3 minutes Scrape the sides and bottom of your mixing container as you stir Dont scrape when you pour If you follow these instructions, you will end up with a beautiful, glossy, hard All In Chemi Box finish! Leave any questions or comments below - we would love to hear from you! 1. CAST RESIN IN A WARM ROOM. I realize that certain times of the year it can be difficult and expensive to run a heater all the time, but resin likes an ambient room temperature of 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit for curing. If it is a little impractical to heat your whole house or apartment, try heating a smaller space such as a bathroom or closet. Use something like a space heater to generate enough warmth so that the area stays warm during the entire curing time. You can also try making a resin hot box for your projects. This works great for smaller undertakings like casting resin into molds and bezels. 2. WARM YOUR RESIN BEFORE CASTING. Warm water in your microwave so its hot, but not boiling. Place your resin and hardener bottles in a plastic bag, then let the bag sit inside the hot water bath for five to ten minutes. Be aware, you do not want to get water in your resin. This could keep it from curing! Note: By keeping the resin in the plastic bag, you will not wash off your label instructions and safety information. Warming your resin before use is helpful even if it is summertime as bottles generally are still cool to the touch. Be careful that you dont overdo it. Yes, there is too much a good thing. If your resin is too warm when mix it, you will shorten your pot time. 3. BE CAREFUL WHEN MIXING. You are not scrambling an egg! Mix deliberately, but carefully, while going along the sides and bottom of the cup. Sometimes when mixing large volumes of resin, its hard not to introduce bubbles that may not rise to the resin surface before casting or pouring. Know that you will need to have a way to get rid of these bubbles once you have cast the resin. 4. MAKE SURE THE SURFACE YOU ARE POURING YOUR RESIN IN OR ON IS ALSO WARM. Temperature differences will produce surface tension which means bubbles can be trapped when the resin is poured. Gently warming your casting top/mold/bezel with a heat gun is an easy way to warm up the area. If you are working with molds that are oven-safe, you can also gently warm them (generally to 150F) before use. 5. DECREASE THE SURFACE TENSION OF A MOLD BY DUSTING A POWDER ON THE SURFACE. A small amount of baby powder can work to reduce bubbles in resin. If you are using colored resin, you can even choose a powder that matches the color of the resin you are using. Use a delicate paintbrush to dust in the powder, then tap out any extra before pouring. 6. ROLL THE RESIN AROUND YOUR MOLD/BEZEL BEFORE COMPLETELY FILLING THE VESSEL. This also helps to break the surface tension. If you do get any bubbles, they will be easier to pop now because there is less vertical space for them to move. You have them trapped! 7 FOR INTRICATE MOLDS, PICK THEM UP AND TRY TO DEMOLD THE RESIN SEVERAL TIMES DURING POURING. This will let any trapped bubbles in creases to escape. 8. DIP INCLUSIONS IN RESIN BEFORE PUTTING THEM INTO YOUR MOLD/BEZEL. THIS ALSO BREAKS THE SURFACE TENSION. Once you have dipped them into the resin, put them into your mold or bezel on an angle, then move into place. By putting an inclusion flat onto a resin surface, you will likely trap bubbles underneath. 9. ONCE YOU HAVE CAST ALL YOUR RESIN, GO OVER IT A FINAL TIME WITH A HEAT SOURCE TO POP BUBBLES. I like to use a heat gun, but I know others will also use a butane torch or barbecue lighter. Please use caution when using a flame! You should have a fire extinguisher nearby. Also, know that excess heat may warp plastic molds. 10. USE A PRESSURE POT. With some resins (like clear polyurethanes) and/or large castings, the only way you can get rid of bubbles is to use a pressure pot. This is a system where your mold and casting are placed into a pot and pressure is created within the pot. This pressure makes the bubbles smaller than the eye can see. The pressure needs to remain on the casting the entire time during which the resin will cure bubble-free. Troubleshooting Tips What Are The 3 Most Frequent Mistakes Made By Resin Newbies? Youve watched our tutorials or heard from others say how easy it is to use epoxy resin. The truth is, it IS easy... but its not foolproof. Here are the top 3 things people do wrong when they first try using resin... follow along so you dont have to learn the hard way! You first need to know that epoxy resin comes in 2 parts: a resin and a hardener. When these two parts are mixed according to directions, a chemical reaction occurs which causes the liquid mixture to cure. When this chemical reaction is somehow prevented or disrupted, a perfect cure is no longer possible, and the result is a sticky mess! Below is what not to do! :) 1. Not Measuring Accurately Precisely Mixing the resin ratio by volume or weight according to the instruction on the bottles. Its important to be accurate when measuring both parts to ensure the ratio is indeed equal, because any material that cannot catalyze properly will remain uncured and sticky. 2. Not Mixing Thoroughly Once youve ensured your mixing ratio is accurate and equal, its important to mix both parts together thoroughly. Again, if any material cannot catalyze properly by any means, including not being blended well enough, it will not be able to cure fully. Mixing vigorously for three to four solid minutes, scraping the sides and bottom of the container, should ensure everything can thoroughly catalyze. 3. Trying to Cheat the Cure Time By Adding More Hardener All In Chemi Box cures mostly (to 95%) within 24 hours, with its fullest cure in 72 hrs. Sometimes people think they can speed up this cure time by adding more hardener to the mixture, however this only throws off the delicate 1:1/2:1/3:1/5:1 mixing ratio and causing curing issues. The best way to encourage curing is to increase the room temperature, since curing is accelerated by heat. If you follow our simple how-to instructions and simply measure and mix your All In Chemi Box properly, you will have no difficulty using and applying All In Chemi Box to your project! Application Usually, it is best to apply a very thin layer of epoxy as an initial seal. It is often referred to as flooding. If you apply a very thin layer of epoxy to the wood to seal it before moving on to a thicker coat, you will lessen the likelihood of bubbles forming in the epoxy. To apply this thin layer, you should use a foam brush instead of a paint brush. In small areas, it may work fine to pour a little epoxy onto the surface and allow it to self-level. The reason for this initial coating is to prevent air bubbles from appearing as the epoxy soaks into the wood or anything other surface that you may be applying epoxy. Bubbles will clutter your completed project will look. This could cause a project to appear to be cloudy and thrown together. You should wait on the flood coat to dry enough that it is not tacky to touch. Most resin and hardener mixtures are simply mixed and poured. In most cases, you should only mix it for long enough to stir it. This will give you the least amount of bubbles and the maximum amount of time to pour it on the surface area of your project. If you do end up with air bubbles inside the epoxy, you should use a torch or even a blow dryer. This will help the bubbles work their way up and out of the epoxy instead of hardening inside of it where you may never be able to get rid of them. Once poured, the mixture should self-level out slowly. If you have a large surface area, you may opt to speed it up by spreading it out with a trowel or a foam brush. Most epoxies will level out at 1/16” to 1/8”. You should not attempt to spread it thinner. Once it is spread out, leave it alone to dry. If you want a thicker coat, you will need to reapply another layer of it. This should be done after the first layer becomes hardened, but does not require you to wait until it is completely cured. When you look at different brands, you will find that most take only a few hours to become hard to the touch. This is when you will want to add other layers. There are some that may require you to sand or scuff the original layer before pouring future ones, but most all can be applied without scuffing. If you are finished with all layers, you should wait on it to cure for about 24 hours before putting it to use as a table or a bar top. This allows it to be fully cured and virtually impenetrable. How To Harden Sticky Resin How To Harden Sticky Resin If your resin hasnt cured properly, this means that the chemical reaction between the resin and hardener was not able to take place. Sticky resin is typically caused by inaccurate measuring or under mixing. The three most common sticky issues are: Liquid, runny resin: causes can include not following the correct ratio of resin and hardener(please see the instruction on the bottle), or by adding too much colorant. The liquid resin will need to be scraped off before you pour a fresh coat. Sticky, tacky resin: often caused by inaccurate measuring, not mixing thoroughly or by curing in cold temperatures. Try moving your piece to a warmer spot: if it doesnt dry, re-pour with a fresh coat of resin. Soft, sticky spots: if you have sticky spots on an otherwise perfectly cured surface, you may have scraped out unmixed resin or hardener from your mixing container when you poured. Scrape off liquid resin as best you can and pour a fresh coat. Resin that remains sticky days after being poured will stay sticky indefinitely until measures are taken to fix the situation. Be sure to measure and mix your resin properly, so this problem will not occur again: Measure All In Chemi Box in precisely equal amounts by volume or weight: Adding too much of either resin or hardener will alter the chemical reaction and the mixture will not cure properly. Mix All In Chemi Box thoroughly for at least 3 minutes: Scrape the sides and bottom of the container as you mix: improperly mixed resin stuck to the sides and bottom wont be able to catalyze and therefore wont be able to cure, leaving sticky spots in your resin that just won’t harden. Sticky Situation #1: Runny Resin What It Looks Like: Liquid, runny resin Resin that may have thickened somewhat but is wet and gooey Why It May Have Happened: You did not follow the 1:1 ratio between resin and hardener: All In Chemi Box requires equal parts of both resin and hardener in order to cure. Adding more hardener will not make the resin cure faster or harder. You may have measured in wrong way, make sure the mixing ratio by weight or volume: All In Chemi Box was formulated to be measured in equal amounts by volume or weight for different radio. You may have accidentally mixed two parts of resin or two parts of hardener: the chemical reaction requires equal parts of resin and hardener in order to harden. You may have added too much colorant: never add more than 6% of the total combined volume of resin and hardener ( eg. 50ml resin + 50 ml hardener = 100 ml total would require no more than 6 ml of colorant. ) How To Fix It: If you have areas with runny or gooey resin, youll have to scrape off as much wet material, as best you can. If you dont remove all the wet material, it could eventually leak out from under the new resin coat. Once youve scraped your piece down, then go ahead and pour a fresh coat of carefully measured and thoroughly mixed All In Chemi Box. Sticky Situation #2: Tacky Resin What It Looks Like: The resin has started to cure but the surface is still tacky, like the sticky side of tape Why It Happened: The temperature of your resin room may be too cold: the ideal temperature in which to cure resin is 75-85F or 24-30C for the first 24 hours. Inaccurate measuring: always measure All In Chemi Box in precisely equal amounts, by volume. Under mixing: mix thoroughly for at least 3 minutes, scraping the sides and bottom of the mixing container as your stir. How To Fix It: Try moving your piece to a warmer spot for 24 hours to see if it dries. If temperature was not an issue and your resin is simply tacky, count yourself lucky: this is the easiest fix of all 3 sticky situations. In fact, as long as you dont have any soft or wet areas ( if you do, that liquidy resin needs to be scraped ) you dont need to do a thing: go ahead and pour a fresh coat of carefully measured and thoroughly mixed All In Chemi Box directly over the entire tacky resin surface. When the fresh resin cures, youll never know you ever had a sticky resin issue. Sticky Situation #3: Soft Spots What It Looks Like: Random soft or wet spots on an otherwise perfectly cured resin surface. Why It May Have Happened: You may have scraped the sides of your mixing container after you poured: although we recommend scraping the sides and bottom of your container when youre mixing, we DONT recommend scraping when you pour your All In Chemi Box onto your artwork ( like you might if you were scraping cake batter out of a mixing bowl and into a cake pan. ) If any unmixed resin or hardener stuck to the sides gets scraped out onto your artwork, youll end up with soft wet spots in your cured resin. How To Fix It: Sand down any perfectly cured areas with coarse sandpaper, such as 80 grit. Wipe up any sanding residue with a damp paper towel. If you have areas with runny or gooey resin, youll have to scrape off as much wet material, as best you can. If you dont remove all the wet material, it could eventually leak out from under the new resin coat. Once youve scraped your piece down and your piece is clear of any sanding dust, then go ahead and pour a fresh coat of carefully measured and thoroughly mixed All In Chemi Box. Conclusion: If You Find Yourself With Sticky Resin: If its liquidy: scrape it off If its tacky: leave it If you have areas that have cured perfectly: sand those parts down, thoroughly wiping away the sanding residue Leave your fresh resin coat to cure for 24 hours: your piece will look good as new! To Avoid Sticky Resin In The First Place: Make sure you resin in a warm environment ( 75-85F or 24-30C is best ) Dont add more than 6% colorant to your resin Measure your resin and hardener in equal amounts by volume Mix your resin thoroughly for at least 3 minutes Scrape the sides and bottom of your mixing container as you stir Dont scrape when you pour If you follow these instructions, you will end up with a beautiful, glossy, hard All In Chemi Box finish! Leave any questions or comments below - we would love to hear from you!How to reduce the bubbles? 1. CAST RESIN IN A WARM ROOM. I realize that certain times of the year it can be difficult and expensive to run a heater all the time, but resin likes an ambient room temperature of 70 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit for curing. If it is a little impractical to heat your whole house or apartment, try heating a smaller space such as a bathroom or closet. Use something like a space heater to generate enough warmth so that the area stays warm during the entire curing time. You can also try making a resin hot box for your projects. This works great for smaller undertakings like casting resin into molds and bezels. 2. WARM YOUR RESIN BEFORE CASTING. Warm water in your microwave so its hot, but not boiling. Place your resin and hardener bottles in a plastic bag, then let the bag sit inside the hot water bath for five to ten minutes. Be aware, you do not want to get water in your resin. This could keep it from curing! Note: By keeping the resin in the plastic bag, you will not wash off your label instructions and safety information. Warming your resin before use is helpful even if it is summertime as bottles generally are still cool to the touch. Be careful that you dont overdo it. Yes, there is too much a good thing. If your resin is too warm when mix it, you will shorten your pot time. 3. BE CAREFUL WHEN MIXING. You are not scrambling an egg! Mix deliberately, but carefully, while going along the sides and bottom of the cup. Sometimes when mixing large volumes of resin, its hard not to introduce bubbles that may not rise to the resin surface before casting or pouring. Know that you will need to have a way to get rid of these bubbles once you have cast the resin. 4. MAKE SURE THE SURFACE YOU ARE POURING YOUR RESIN IN OR ON IS ALSO WARM. Temperature differences will produce surface tension which means bubbles can be trapped when the resin is poured. Gently warming your casting top/mold/bezel with a heat gun is an easy way to warm up the area. If you are working with molds that are oven-safe, you can also gently warm them (generally to 150F) before use. 5. DECREASE THE SURFACE TENSION OF A MOLD BY DUSTING A POWDER ON THE SURFACE. A small amount of baby powder can work to reduce bubbles in resin. If you are using colored resin, you can even choose a powder that matches the color of the resin you are using. Use a delicate paintbrush to dust in the powder, then tap out any extra before pouring. 6. ROLL THE RESIN AROUND YOUR MOLD/BEZEL BEFORE COMPLETELY FILLING THE VESSEL. This also helps to break the surface tension. If you do get any bubbles, they will be easier to pop now because there is less vertical space for them to move. You have them trapped! 7 FOR INTRICATE MOLDS, PICK THEM UP AND TRY TO DEMOLD THE RESIN SEVERAL TIMES DURING POURING. This will let any trapped bubbles in creases to escape. 8. DIP INCLUSIONS IN RESIN BEFORE PUTTING THEM INTO YOUR MOLD/BEZEL. THIS ALSO BREAKS THE SURFACE TENSION. Once you have dipped them into the resin, put them into your mold or bezel on an angle, then move into place. By putting an inclusion flat onto a resin surface, you will likely trap bubbles underneath. 9. ONCE YOU HAVE CAST ALL YOUR RESIN, GO OVER IT A FINAL TIME WITH A HEAT SOURCE TO POP BUBBLES. I like to use a heat gun, but I know others will also use a butane torch or barbecue lighter. Please use caution when using a flame! You should have a fire extinguisher nearby. Also, know that excess heat may warp plastic molds. 10. USE A PRESSURE POT. With some resins (like clear polyurethanes) and/or large castings, the only way you can get rid of bubbles is to use a pressure pot. This is a system where your mold and casting are placed into a pot and pressure is created within the pot. This pressure makes the bubbles smaller than the eye can see. The pressure needs to remain on the casting the entire time during which the resin will cure bubble-free. powered by
Price: 55.11 USD
Location: Perth Amboy, New Jersey
End Time: 2024-11-05T16:38:32.000Z
Shipping Cost: 8 USD
Product Images
Item Specifics
Restocking Fee: No
Return shipping will be paid by: Buyer
All returns accepted: Returns Accepted
Item must be returned within: 60 Days
Refund will be given as: Money back or replacement (buyer's choice)
Brand: ALL IN CHEMI BOX
Model: 1:1 Ratio Epoxy Resin Mix by Volume
